Airgun Forum

Hi All, I acquired the subject air rifle from a dear friend a year or so ago. He has recently passed away and I am interested in restoring this piece to working order. When I first got it I fired it a few times successfully with my Grandsons and then it quit firing the pellets. Last night I decided to take it apart to see what the air chamber and seals looked like. The piston end where I expected to find a seal of some sort has a yellowed rubber type disc on it's end. The edge of this disc that would seal against the chamber wall is gone and looks like it flaked off as pieces were in the air cylinder. Looks like about a 1/16 inch of material is done thus there is no air seal between the piston and the cylinder. I just spent the morning searching the internet for parts. All I learned is that 'maybe' Beeman now 'owns' what used to be the Feinwerkbau Oberndorf/N air gun line. I am really hoping someone here can advise me as to whether there are newer rifles that use the same parts that may be available. The piston measures 1.10in and the chamber measures about 1.11in. The disk on the end of the piston appears to be held on the end of the piston by just a tab or rubber material that does into a hole in the front of the piston although I did not pry it off as I was afraid of further damaging it. Thank you in advance if anyone can help me find a part of a airriflesmith that can get this piece operating again. Also and replies as to the history or value of this rifle are welcome. The serial number looks to be 4014.

The finest springers ever made its hard to imagine it ever wearing out I think Beeman was the sole importer of the Feinwerkbau Sport 124 and they should have a replacement seal if not they can be found with a few phone calls.

While you’re at it you should get the breech seal and main spring along with the main seal (piston seal) there inexpensive and will most likely out last you and me.

It really is a great gun the value I’m guessing here but would think 150-350$ depending on care 250.00 being the average near mint condition.

Shoot if I can remember, Stock I think the gun shoots in the high 700s to mid 800s.

Try Beeman for the original parts if they don’t have them try back someone will be able to help

I'll try to contact Beeman after the Thanksgiving holiday weekend. I'll look again but I didn't see any other seal but that one big one on the end of the piston. Thanks again.. RubyCreekTed

Thanks agan Ratite, Just talked to Beeman and the three parts are on their way.
Ted

I should receive my parts very soon. Can any of you give me any hints/tricks on what lube I may need to put on the piston seal and spring. I didn't think to ask or buy any lube when I ordered the parts. I have since read about some sort of 'tar' for the spring and moly for the piston. Are there any commonly available lubes I may use? I have a plan to put the piston, spring, etc back in the tube but would gladly take recommendations on how to do this safely. THANKS, Ted

This is important before you add any lube make sure you start with a completely dry spring, piston, seal and cylinder the reason I say this is if everything is dry when you start you will know the exact amount of lube you have used and if done right will not be too wet with lube.

Use a good high pressure rated synthetic grease on the spring (very small amount) 2 good washers on the ends of the spring hmmm,,,, its been awhile,,,,,, Timken Load 50 or better on the grease.

For the seal add a bit of molly to a very small amount of grease and wipe a film of lube on the side of the seal behind the sealing surface. Or for best performance use the factory oil for the seal and use a very small amount 1 or 2 drops take your finger and wipe a film on the seal to start and then lube as the factory recommends.

I’ve done what the factory has recommended for more then 2 years with the Legacy (Crosman) and all is fine,, still working with the stock seal hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of shots.

My RWS 350 gets just what the book calls for.

Ratite, sorry to be a pain. I am new to the internals of airguns. When you say a couple of washers, do you mean to add a washer on each end of the spring? There were none there. Is this to be for sacrificial wear so that the piston and back piece whatever it is called do not wear out from the spring movement? I could make these washers from stock washers by re-sizing them. Thanks again. The parts still haven't arrived. Shipped from CA to MI... Ted

I use them where ever there is pressure and two twisting or rotating surfaces.

What happens when you compress a compression spring is the spring will rotate back and forth as you compress and release

When you install a Thrust Washers it acts as a bearing (I use this term lightly) the washer is precision ground and hardened and intended as a bearing race for the Thrust bearing.

If you install a needle thrust bearing sandwiched between 2 washers at the end of a spring you have a very smooth spring function it allows the spring to move freely without fiction.

A washer is good at both ends of the spring and a bearing is better at one end.
RWS use 2 washers and oil (NOT GREASE) on their upper end springers I would think RWS knows what there doing.
.
.
Go to this link and down load the thrust info this will supply all the info you need about the washers and bearings as well as dispel all roomers about the performance
Thrust info

Since I didn't have any washers or thrust bearing when I dis-assembled the rifle I assume that these parts are performance/reliability improvements done or recommended, correct? This does look good but I will probably put the new parts in and assemble the rifle as it was and then maybe look to get these parts later. I have what I believe is an early serial number of #4014 so the washer/thrust bearing parts could have come into products after this. I just got the parts via UPS about an hour ago. The new spring is about 1/2 inch shorter than the old one. Would you recommend me putting the new one in or the old one? I would then save the other for a spare. I would be very interested to get some history of this gun and manufacturer. Got any ideas where to look? Thanks again.

The washers are an aftermarket mod for most guns and do improve the over all improvement.

I have just acquired a Sport 124 that has a Beeman scope,to give to my son. It is in unbelievable like new condition. We went to shoot our airguns (I have a RWS 48 that is quite old. I was happy with the accuray, which goes witout saying for their reputation. About 100 pellets were shot out of it and then cleaning pellets were shot out of it before we put it away (3 pellets were inserted for the cleaning). The following week Jason went to shoot it and the barrel cocked and the trigger would release the spring but it would not send the pellet. I removed the barreled action from the stock to check it out. I wanted to take it apart to investigate it further but I wanted to make sure there are no springs under tension (without it being cocked) to shoot out when the barrel assembly and cocking lever were taken apart? Any help would be greatly appreciated.