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RWS Model 6M Original, Service, Parts & Rebuilding


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RWS Model 6M Rebuilding
 

 

 


After disassembling the RWS 6M

I found what I usually find, a seal that has been oiled, or what I would guess has been oiled.


 

 When the instructions say DO NOT OIL one should heed to the instructions and not oil.


It is always wise to have the parts ready to re-build, but since this is one of my personal  shooters I'm in no hurry, the next best thing is to stick them in bags, clearly marked. One should keep the cog's and caps on the side they came from, 


 

If I do make the seals, they will be made of polyurethane,
 I have always had good luck with the Green Stick, and see no reason not to use it now.



 


What I found when talking to RWS about the RWS 6M seals.

They have them in stock but will not sell them, I called two time just to make sure I heard them correctly.

Yes that was right, RWS has them in stock but will not sell them, the 6m is as old as the hills so there is nothing special about the gun.

There reason for not selling is,,,, the gun is complicated and takes special knowledge, OK, I agree the gun needs care when rebuilding
but the people that designed the gun seem to know what they were doing and the gun is no more difficult then a 10 speed bicycle.

Having rebuilt countless Harley Motors and  transmissions a few  650 Bonneville engines, trans included in that one.
some Fords, Chevy's, one 1966 Volvo which I wish I still had and too many Volkswagens to count, 
not to forget a trained gunsmith and Airgunsmith for the last 30 years,  I think one little 6M would be of no concern,
besides I would think selling parts would be good press for them.

I have always been a factory parts supply supporter but when the factory refuses to sell parts its hard to support them.

 


RWS Original 6
Cog Removal


Cog removal, there is a proper tool to remove the cog caps on the
RWS 6 and 10 but I would suspect not everyone will have one so I will show the best way to remove the cog caps, by the way, some call them the 
pinion gear and cap.

Well, what ever there called, what I would think is the best way after all were not rebuilding the gun to make damage.

 Since I have never seen a book on how to rebuild the 4 or 5 dozen RWS 6 and 10 giss systems we have rebuilt, feel free to scold me.

 We remove the cog caps with the proper tool, BUT before we use the tool we use this method because the caps are as tight as they could possibly get.

The caps are most likely tightened down with a far better tool then I have with many years behind them to be stuck together also since I would guess they are first tightened then drilled for the wee little set screw making a burr and even more difficult to loosen the cap this would make since because I get a far better grip.

First thing to do is to install this cover, it keeps the pliers from digging into the piston tube, We use a polyurethane that is about
10 thousands thick

then wrap the cog cap with a good heavy leather strip, shinny side to the cog squeeze real hard and turn.



From here we un-screw



Now that that's all done I want to say this one more time, when you re-install the cap be sure to rotate the cap backwards to get the threads engaged, when you rotate the cap backwards with applied pressure you will here a pronounced click! that is your cue to start screwing the cap on.

If you do a good job cleaning the threads where the factory drilled the cap for the locking screws you will be able to install them by hand, No tools needed, even if you need to take it apart again still no tools.

Clean them threads, you'll be way ahead
 


The tool

If  your lucky enough to find one make sure the splines line up or you will be stripping the knurl.
 

Had some time today to complete the Diana RWS M6 Rebuild
The wood screw RWS thought real hard about using on the cocking sleeve
started the plastic to cracking, rebuilding it finished it off, I will need to get a new one.



Make sure the opposing pistons and the pressure tube is clean, this is paramount for a successful rebuild.
 



The rear seal is not a seal it is more of a bushing.

If there is any sign of piston contact with the tube wall or bushing deterioration replacement is necessary, on this bushing I could see very little wear, and since this is my personal gun it will be disassembled frequently and the bushing is a proper fit there is no need for replacement.   

Below is what remains of the piston seal on the face of the pressure tube,
When rebuilding a virgin Diana RWS 6M the old seal must be completely removed or your rebuild will be a waist of time. don't take this lightly, it is like removing hardened epoxy from the bottom of a pipe.

On the Springs below I don't know what was used from the factory but theses springs
felt like they had sticky rubber cement sprayed on them and were difficult to separate.

The smaller set required soaking before they could be separated from the spring guide.
It is possible whatever destroyed the seal could have ended up on the springs
or what destroyed the seal could have come from the springs.  
 

Organic solvents (petroleum-based)
should never be used on airguns or Airgun parts. I think Organic solvents are a hazardous waste, out of date, un-healthy and pose a fire hazard.
 

Remember when using cleaners, Organic or not you should wear gloves, chemical poisoning happens over many years and you will never see it coming but if you wear gloves you won't have to.


And to double check the work before any shots are shot
we double check the piston set, since it calls for mm,
I like to make sure my conversions are correct with a caliper.
 
 

 

The Breech seal is another seal that needs to be checked before we test.
its a pain to make them but if we can do it the first time around, its time not a big deal.

It looks like I'm sanding the shim on the carpet but there is a surfaced block of steel under the sandpaper



These shims can be anywhere from 0.4mm to 0.05mm,
This pistol needs a 0.2mm for a good seal.
I guess I could use a press to cut the shims but after 30 years,
I'm mostly set in my ways, handmade seems to give the best results.
 

This is the completed RWS 6M

It shoots nice and smooth with zero recoil, the 2 stage trigger
is smooth and crisp. Too bad RWS thought to use a wood screw on the plastic!
we will need to buy or make a new one.

All in all I would say this pistol is in top shape, Just that broken
piece of junk plastic RWS drove a wood screw into.

 

The end result of the rebuild gives this gun an average of 305.0 feet per second, The MAD stands for Mean Absolute Deviation that's 4.6!.
This gun is shooting on spot as shown by the target, shot today at 10m, some would say that a pistol with an average shooting velocity of 305.0 is junk, well look at the target,
that's a 5
shot target ready for the major leagues.



Buy the way, not my shooting, my eyes are that good
 For more results see Airgun Data Base


We can make the RWS 6 shoot faster but then we would be defeating the purpose of an easy to cock
and load accurate smooth shooting pistol that is intended to shoot 10 metres,
305fps at 10m is roughly 10 long steps shooting 200 miles per hour, more then enough to punch holes in paper.

For this pistol to shoot 400fps to 500fps is too much and is not needed when used as intended.
Besides, when you can get 3 to 5 pellets in the 9 ring at 10 paces what more do you need.

If your looking to hunt there are much better suited pistols.

      

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